MENS DEPARTEMENT

When comparing womenswear to menswear, one cannot deny that the boys seem to get way less options in fashion choice than the girls. Mostly, it seems, designers still want the men to be stylishly understated, a principle which fashion has been dragging along since the 18th century. Nevertheless, if you take a close look, menswear has been changing rapidly over the last years, leaning towards feminine shapes – we also have been seeing heels on men quite a lot lately- which brings much more variety to the game.

I’ll be the first to say that I am -and have been for a while- most inspired by ‘the guys section’. Even though, or especially, as the colour palette is often muted and limited to a few, designers are playing around with textures and shapes, contrasting or matching them. Here are some of my favourites from the FW 2010 shows:

from left to right: costume national, dior homme, raf simons

Right now, I am totally hooked on rich, shimmering wools, seen combined with roughened at Costume National and in different hues at Dior Homme. I like how Raf Simon’s trenchcoat looks like a highwaisted skirt and blouse at first, but actually isn’t.

maison margiela, louis vuitton, viktor&rolf

Subtly used pattern at Margiela and Viktor&Rolf, and again, wool contrasted by silky flowing materials and sturdy leather at Louis Vuitton.

all photos via gq

PROSE PLEASE!

The german label Prose Studio is not an unfamiliar name, the Schorndorf-based designers Miriam Lehle and Sabine Egler caused quite the stir at the Festival de Hyères 2008; the collection, titled ‘Golden Decay’ displayed dresses in dark, muted tones adorned with beautifully melted and draped golden cobwebs, which were actually heated and reformed synthetics. These images sure stuck in my head, but I didn’t come across them again until today. However,  I will follow them way more attentive from now on, as I’ve become completely fascinated by their special edition project ‘Crumpled Paper‘. Just as the title suggests, the leitmotif is very clear: crumpled, torn paper in all its variations. Dresses that look like they’re actually made of paper, silk pants and dresses screen printed with crumpled paper. All in soft hues with a little black thrown in, with simple, flowing cuts make for a perfectly delicate and light contrast to the rough material of paper itself.

Gorgeously put into focus by photographer Rafael Krötz.

photos via thepop & prose studio

SIMPLICITY

complex geometries spring/summer 2010 photographed by jak&jil

I hate to repost images that are floating around a lot on blogs, but this time, I just couldn’t resist. Complex Geometries’ clothes are such a huge inspiration to me, they embody everything I’d like to achieve with my own designs one day; simplicity in terms of colour, gorgeous drapery which flatter basically all bodyshapes, immaculate cuts with that extra twist you’d sometimes only notice at second glance, but which makes all the difference. I’d love to own one of their pieces, but for now it’s back to saving up and, in the meantime, working on my own concepts..

LOOK BACK

via contemporary fashion archive

ARTISANAL SS09

i don’t think words can express my love and admiration of Margiela’s work.